weird check engine light situation.

ed3tsmith · weird check engine light situation.

ok this has been going on for the past week and a half.

pretty much.. i'll be driving and i could be up to about 4k rpms and the check engine light will come on + the car has multiple small backfires + a loss in acceleration and at idle its about 100 rpms.

and my only way for temporarily fixing that is to turn the car off and restart it (happens pretty randomly, at times i'm moving so i cut it off and restart and keep going)

anyone had this problem?

Mattes

the simplest thing to check what the failor is:
Check you ECU!

If the motorcheck-lamp turns on, than there must be an failor on the ECU!

On the passenger's side you have to pull up the floormats. There you'll find the ECU.
Than put the key in the lock-hole and turn it to the ignition (Step II).
Than you can count the blinking code on the ECU.

Some cool infos you can find here: http://forums.hondatuningmagazine...civic-crx/some-ef-info/index.html

Greets

EFnGOLDEN

same thing happened to my car man, it just needed a new fuel filter. up in the higher rpms when running for a while it was putting too much stress on the fuel pump causing it to overwork itself therefore throwing a code and sputtering. when you shut the car off and restart what it is doing is restarting the RAM which is why it will run good again, untill the same thing happens throwing another code. if it happens enough times under the same conditions it will store it in the computers ROM and you will have to clear it out after you fix whatever it is that was causing the problem

hondacivicdx

So your saying since i put a JDM into my 91honda civic dx i need to reset the ecu code? this will stop the check engine light.

~Sp33~

If theres something not hooked up correctly, then resetting the ECU will only be a temporary fix until the computer finds the problem again.

ed3tsmith

hondacivicdx

Found the problem reading my code ten lights(Intake air sensor)
So where would i find that at to check that.

hondacivicdx

ok today i found out that the Intake temp sensor is not even pluged up,there are two female plugs so you can't plug them in.
so i will find out how i can fix this problem later. I guess when he put the other motor in there was no harness for that part since it came from Japan.

~Sp33~

Please post the problems your having with your car in your thread.

hondacivicdx

Forgive me again i am sorry

ed3tsmith

ok so i took some time outta my day to finally look at my ecu. and from reading the stuff on the link i still don't quite get it Confused

ok i was looking at the blinking light. and i see 4 quick flashes. what does that mean? thanks for the help.

~Sp33~

4 quick flashes = code 4

Crank angle sensor. Check for continuity of all wires, and check the resistance from the wires coming from your dis. If it's below 200ohms youve got a problem and probably need a new distributor.

Searching H-T for code 4 will help as well. It's fairly well covered.

Cheers.

ed3tsmith

damn that sucks.

well i went to check on getting a new distributor and i got two results from advance auto parts. just gotta check the ID number on mine to see which one i need.

~Sp33~

What were the numbers? Did they tell you what the difference was?

ed3tsmith

hondacivicdx

Advance auto should know the number of the right of the distrib

Type-S EF

TEC or HITACHI? I think if you change the whole thing they are interchangeable.

Just like the Denso alternator vs the Mitsubishi alternator

ed3tsmith

didn't notice the name.. just tryin to get somethin that works cause not being able to do over 54 mph is bugging. gotta take the long way to places since i can't even do the speed limit on the highway. lol

btw is changing a distributor easy? might do it myself.

Type-S EF

3 bolts and 2 plugs, but you have to set base timing when your done.

MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL A NEW O-RING!!!

ed3tsmith

hondacivicdx

I guess someone has to explane better than i : Ok it's a certain way the distrubutor is set, once you put the new o ring in and bolt it in do not tighten it all the way, cut the motor on and allow it to run, then take the whole distrubutor and move it either up or down and watch your rpms go either up or down, I think that's what is meant by Pre setting it.GUYS if i am wrong forgive me Im trying Very Happy

Oh by the way ed, Cool mega man Razz

Ive got huey lewis
on my i tunes and Mega man is right to the beat of Heart and soul.
(ha,ha,ha)

ed3tsmith

ah ok, cool cool. lol thanks

Type-S EF

To set base timing you must have a stock harmonic balancer that is true and straight. Jumper the wires at the terminal next to the hood prop on 88-89 and next to the blower motor on 90-91, Get out the timing light and look at the harmonic balancer with it using the timing cover as a gun sight, line up the red line in the sights. Tighten the bolts, double check its right and remove the jumper.

I found it easier to unplug the IAC motor, and if your timing light has a tach on it you can set your idle speed too.

ed3tsmith

damn.. lost me there. guess i'll get my mechanic to help me out on that. lol

hondacivicdx

Thanks for explaning it better than i , i knew you guys would come
in to help.

~Sp33~

ed3tsmith

lol no timing light here. got me the distributor today. a friend of mine told me a way you could mark it with a marker to set it(the new one) the way it already was(the old one)

~Sp33~

hondacivicdx

Are you still having trouble, What year is your car ive went out a bought a Chilton's CIVIC/CRX/DEL SOL 1984-95 REPAIR MANUAL
i might be able to help you (just a little)

ed3tsmith

its done. sounds alittle different around 4000rpm. didn't wanna take it any higher in case somethin happened.

~Sp33~

Different as in, it's bogging? You can hear if it's running rich. I don't think you should be particularly worried about where it's adjusted to as long as your firing order is correct now you've replaced it.

ed3tsmith

nah its not bogging. definitely feel more acceleration. sounds more beefy lol if that makes more sense.

cap and wires are already new so i didn't have to disconnect those. i just took my rotor off the old distributor cause thats pretty new as well, and put it on the new one, put the cap on the new distributor and put everything back in place.

91EFCIVIC

So did that fix your problem completely or are you still having trouble with it?

ed3tsmith

that was awhile ago. yeah it was fixed till i started workin on mpfi which my car has been down for a couple weeks cause its too cold for me to figure out why it wont start and some other things.

efcivic4dr

ive never used a timing light when changing a dizzy. it goes in the same way it came out. lol