afroskater
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tie rods????anyone ever replaced them? easy? hard? is it expensive to have them replaced?
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EF3_KeK
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tie rods are easy to do...and not too expensive either.
On my old S14 it took maybe a total of 45 mins to do both sides.
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afroskater
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cool because i think thats the problem. my front drivers side wheel is kinda shakey. i jacked my car up earlier and i was able to wiggle my wheel around. should i replace just the drivers side or the passenger side as well??
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EF3_KeK
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you should do both at once honestly...
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afroskater
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thanks man
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EF3_KeK
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are you doing the inner and outer all at once ? Im not so sure if FWD tie rods are the same as RWD haha...ive built nothing but RWD cars my entire life ... and i chose the EF sedan to be my first haha
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afroskater
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should i do the inner and outer?????
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jun805
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| afroskater wrote: | | should i do the inner and outer????? |
if i were you, i would because it'll save you the headache of them goin out on you later and having to replace them. 
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Ricer
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| jun805 wrote: | | afroskater wrote: | | should i do the inner and outer????? |
if i were you, i would because it'll save you the headache of them goin out on you later and having to replace them. |
if you do that make sure you make some kinda mark to get the alignment close.. and make sure you get it aligned as soon as you're done
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afroskater
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| Ricer wrote: | | if you do that make sure you make some kinda mark to get the alignment close.. and make sure you get it aligned as soon as you're done |
thats what i was told. thanks for all the info
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silverfodo
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wheel is shaky when you jacked it up?
have you checked the play in your upper ball joints? i have never experienced a tie rod problem on a honda before, but the upper and lower ball joints go bad (upper especially on ef/ed chassis). I have replaced them twice on my sedan (200k miles)
i mean, changing out any old/worn part is a good idea regardless, but im just suggesting this from a money-saving point of view.
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Type-S EF
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I have yet to see an inner on a honda that needs replaceing, i did them when i did my auto to manual 1 day swap, they were a bitch!! that and the flywheel bolts, at least holding the crank/flywheel still, i was dumb for keeping the power rack on that swap......
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Comeonkip
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I usually use spray on blue marking compound to keep the front toe reasonably within specs. Plus having a toe gauge ( or some tape and a tape measure ) makes checking everything afterwards alot easier. Go Moog, they are a bit more money but they are by far a superior product to the rest of the replacements.
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