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EFsedanlover

Skunk 2 troubles....

I'm going to make this as short and as possible

My setup: 90 civic lx sedan, Skunk2 Pro-s coilover setup( coilovers + shocks) Skunk 2 front camber kit. wheels 15X8 equips +10 offset

Ok, so I want to keep the car as low as it sits now and still be able to tuck these wheels under the fender wells. I installed the front camber kit and adjusted it as negatively as possible but for some reason it actually RAISED the front end of my car about .5"-1.0" and now I hear this  knocking noise comming from the front whenever I drive, and the front suspension feels extremely tight! All I did was put the camber kit on WTF!!! Can somebody tell me what I did wrong or if there are any solutions so that I can keep my car slammed and still tuck these wheels underneath....Any help will be greatly appreciated!
nala619

i had the same problem with a generic front camber kit, check to make sure it has a good fitment. with mines, i didnt fit where the camber kit should be placed but i got skunk2s and theres no problem now, heres a pic to show what im talking about,



im pretty sure i didnt make much sense.. :[ but the pic shows that it fits perfectly.. with the generic one, it pushed the end out touching the wheel well..
91sedanlx

I'm interested in knowing why there hitting to because I want to get skunk 2 UCA's soon.
whoa its len 2

Upper arm camber kits such as Skunk 2's are more prone to hit the chassis because they are bulkier than factory arms. The adjusters add height to the arms thus leaving you with lesser room between the arm and chassis. Some people either stick to factory arms or cut a hole in the chassis where the arm would make contact.

With a wide wheel such as a 15x8 +10 offset you will singificantly change the ride height when you change its camber. To see this, take the wheel off and measure the height. Now tilt it and measure the height again, it should be taller resulting in a raised stance.

To successfully slam and tuck you just have to find the right combination of ride height, offset, tire size/stretch, and camber. There are different variations to make it possible. My advice is to use your current setup as a baseline and make adjustments or buy new parts as neccessary. Youre gonna have to make a few sacrifices here and there but whatever it takes to reach your goal right.  Laughing
reznunt

the reason your car raised up is because of your new camber setting.  with the skunk2 camber arm set to it's extreme negative setting, your knuckle arm (the one that is vertical) is now binding with the lower part of your camber arm during compression.  you aren't getting full compression of your suspension anymore.  i had the same problem when i set my negative camber.  if you are having trouble picturing what i'm describing, put your car on stands and cycle your suspension with a floor jack.  you will see exactly where the arms are binding.

to fix the problem, you can dial in positive camber until your suspension can completely cycle and compress without binding.  since i needed all the negative camber i could get, i slightly notched the camber arm where it was binding with the knuckle arm and it solved the problem.  i get full suspension travel and the "knocking" you are referring to went away.  my car also got almost an inch lower without even touching the collars on the shocks.

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