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zoomownsanEF

overheatn B2'

k so i just got the car 5days ago.
car runs freaking awesome,no holding back at all.
i knw for a fact that the OG clutch is going soon.

the car overheats when am in stop n go traffic and but goes to cool when i drive for a straight run i thought it was tha thermostat so i replaced it but it still overheating and today i was mad last minute shopping traffic and it started smoking so i let it chill for a good hour drove it home now letting it relax until i fix it.

i notice the one fan on the radiator doesnt turn on at all!
fuse is intact and good.
could it be the relay?
fan motor?
this is how the engine bay looks.

could the headers be giving out a load of heat!
nah couldnt be?

pls help this is my daily![/img]
~Sp33~

If the fan wasn't on while the car was overheating, that was your problem. That would also be why it was overheating in traffic, but not while you were moving. (While you're moving air passes through the rad, but while you're stopped the car relies on the fan).

Check for continuity from the fan to the fuse box, also try disconnecting the fan and powering it to see if the motor itself is fried. If the fan runs, there's a break in your wiring somewhere. (Or a fuse is blown)
C_R_X_V_T_E_C

coolant temp sensor?  just a thought
zoomownsanEF

~Sp33~ wrote:
If the fan wasn't on while the car was overheating, that was your problem. That would also be why it was overheating in traffic, but not while you were moving. (While you're moving air passes through the rad, but while you're stopped the car relies on the fan).

Check for continuity from the fan to the fuse box, also try disconnecting the fan and powering it to see if the motor itself is fried. If the fan runs, there's a break in your wiring somewhere. (Or a fuse is blown)


my main goal today is to check the fans,has to be.
hopefully!
and thanks for the help.just needed reassuring.
ill keep everyone updated
zoomownsanEF

i checked the relay its good.,im tired,so ima test the fans tmr.
i was working on her for like an hour,first christmas fixing a car!
hope she comes out healthy.
JDQCIVIC4DR

i had that problem too it was the fan and then the relay. i just removed the relay dont get and hot wired the harness or use a paper clip. dont get confused with the a/c fan relay their next to each other also i had after my fan went bad i followed the wire color not checking the power and direction of air flow. it over heated going up hills or long idle. since i have on constantly it has over heated over 2 years, only when my radiator cracks leaks or my rear hoses go bad or my fast idle control breaks
zoomownsanEF

JDQCIVIC4DR wrote:
i had that problem too it was the fan and then the relay. i just removed the relay dont get and hot wired the harness or use a paper clip. dont get confused with the a/c fan relay their next to each other also i had after my fan went bad i followed the wire color not checking the power and direction of air flow. it over heated going up hills or long idle. since i have on constantly it has over heated over 2 years, only when my radiator cracks leaks or my rear hoses go bad or my fast idle control breaks


i dont have an ac relay no ac out of the factory just blower.
but im so sad,i need it running.need to test the fans tmr,ha
JDQCIVIC4DR

so yeah wire directly to the fuse box the fan should work make sure fan turns off when car is off. also make sure the fan blowing air towards the engine mean its suck air from the radiator
zoomownsanEF

i attempted to test my fans,but idnt think i did it right so am waiting for my uncle to come over with his volt tester so i can test the motor.
if the motor is good then definitely has to be the switch.

man i need her up n running healthy by jan9
oahu da ef meet!

shes my daily!
=]
JDQCIVIC4DR

yeah that true if you dont wanna cut wires then use wire taps also called spilter disconnect the harness tap the black wire and blue i think its blue. ground one wire directly to the frame or battery since its battery is close to the fan within ( 1foot ). tap that other wire on the positive battery. if the fan doesnt spin then its fan motor is bad. my oem fan gave up around at 260,000 miles = 16years. used fna go about 40-80 ebay slim fan high flow $30
zoomownsanEF

JDQCIVIC4DR wrote:
yeah that true if you dont wanna cut wires then use wire taps also called spilter disconnect the harness tap the black wire and blue i think its blue. ground one wire directly to the frame or battery since its battery is close to the fan within ( 1foot ). tap that other wire on the positive battery. if the fan doesnt spin then its fan motor is bad. my oem fan gave up around at 260,000 miles = 16years. used fna go about 40-80 ebay slim fan high flow $30


i think i might snag some fan motors at the wreckers then go from there.haha
~Sp33~

When my OEM fan started going bad, you could hear it grinding away.

I'd be checking for power at the motor before you replace the fan.
zoomownsanEF

thanks everyone for the help.
i jumped the fan motor and it didnt spin.
so i got a mad deal from a cool guy.
a good working fan assembly now it doesnt overheat.
a front bumper filler piece
a left fender and
a red trunk garnish though civic faded away.
all for the amazing price of 45$

i had to get the whole assembly bcus nobody sold new denso cooling fan motors,so i went to mitsuba.
~Sp33~

Sweet, good to know it's back up and running.
zoomownsanEF

~Sp33~ wrote:
Sweet, good to know it's back up and running.

thanks,im glad i can move on to bigger things now with my efsedan.
ha

ima go for straight looks then when i feel tha time is right ima go mini me cus money is tight when your in high school.
ugh/
JDQCIVIC4DR

dope high school with a 4dr i remember i fitted 5 girls on the back seat, 2 in the trunk, me and 2 other in the front! my ghetto days (with stock spring then went to cut DA springs).  glad to hear youre rolling
ef9racer

its not a fan issue the rad is too big for the motor to be a fan issue
heres a list to look at
thermostat
head gasket
coolant
coolant corosion
water pump
bad hoses
leaks
cracked head
warped head
if i come up with more ill write back
zoomownsanEF

ef9racer wrote:
its not a fan issue the rad is too big for the motor to be a fan issue
heres a list to look at
thermostat
head gasket
coolant
coolant corosion
water pump
bad hoses
leaks
cracked head
warped head
if i come up with more ill write back


me and my brother checked all,even the block.
but nope
was just the fan not coming on.
so i replaced the motor and all g now.
doesnt even creep up over the 1/4 spot on the temp gauge now.
even in stop n go traffic...
tested it yesterday going to the swap meet
to get some mango and a Guam flag.ahaha
JDQCIVIC4DR

damm your hella lucky it was just a fan causing over heating, i just found out why my b18c stroked 2.0L turbo over heats. lack of coolant flow caused by Golden Eagle Block Guard welded in. which the welds caused my cylinder wall to crack. daily driven ef eg b series with turbo usually over heat common problem especially during summer. hondata and other dyno shops say the same thing.
zoomownsanEF

JDQCIVIC4DR wrote:
damm your hella lucky it was just a fan causing over heating, i just found out why my b18c stroked 2.0L turbo over heats. lack of coolant flow caused by Golden Eagle Block Guard welded in. which the welds caused my cylinder wall to crack. daily driven ef eg b series with turbo usually over heat common problem especially during summer. hondata and other dyno shops say the same thing.

that sucks ass.
i was so worried to get into traffic but then it didnt even get close to tha H so i once i hit free roads i jammed it.ha

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