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How to: black out your headlights

Blacking out your headlights is possible. I did it. However I didn't black them out entirely, because at the time when I did it I wasn't sure how much reflective light would be lost, so I only painted the outer portion of the bottom side and top..Look through these pages and you'll see my car..I don't have my camera with me today so I don't have anything new to show you.

Anyhow, to do it is pretty simple. Just remove the entire light housing from the car. Remove the metal clips by sliding them off, be careful not to damage the plastic and glass. Turn your oven to about 175-185 degrees. Put one of them at a time so that the honda bond softens nicely. Do each housing for about 5 min. If its still difficult to remove them put them back in for increments of 2-3 min. You don't want to melt or warp anything.

Before you do all this though go to Honda and buy a tube of Honda Bond. Its used for many things from gasket sealing to your headlights. Cost I think is 15.00 per tube. Just buy it..

OK, now that you have the headlight glass off, you can remove that ugly metal piece that I think centers the light bulb...I don't see any point to having it there. Keep in mind that the reflective coating is 100 years old..don't use any kind of adhesive tape not even blue painters tape, unless you want to tear off what you want to keep. I thought it would work when I did it but I fucked it all up. I can probably fix it by spray painting the areas with chrome spray paint, but I don't know how well that will work.

Instead try using aluminum foil, I understand that it covers much better and you can mold it. unless your just going to spray the entire light housing...then just go for it.

To put the lights back on once the paint is dry and you've added however many coats of flat black paint, just reverse the process only add the honda bond instead of the oven. Slide your clips back on, mount the housing, replace your bulbs and walla ha ha...blacked out housing.

Have fun re aligning your head lights, too.

Write up by EFSS#17
EFSS#17

thanks for posting my write up...appreciate it.
Denton15501

can you post some pics of your blacked out headlights, I would like to see how it comes out becuz I wanna blk out my 1pc jdmones when I get them!
1SLOW90ED3

may i see some pics please.. lookin 2 try new things on tha 4dr
jriley60

hmm

i don't know if i would do this with flat black but if you look at michaels or hobby lobby or hobby town or something like that they have three oz cans of black tint spray for model cars that's what i am going to use. it will keep the reflectiveness
Jhwerks

I've done multiple lights everything from 88-91 civic/crx's to 2008 yaris's.

Very Happy
Yes in some cases the reflective coating can come off w/the tape.Just in rare cases have I had this problem.If it does happen scuff,wash,tape off and spray Duplicolor chrome paint on it.It does not appear like it looks on the cap but it does it's job.

Here are some I've done.

Before:


After:


Jhwerks

Re: hmm

jriley60 wrote:
it will keep the reflectiveness


After doing many lights,the reflectiveness seems to be reflecting just as good as it did before.
Just leave the two "moon cuts" alone and you will have no problems if you do the amber spray make sure to use only 2 coats then it becomes more dark after this and looks like mustard.

the hobby paint fades over time and looks like you had your lights in the lake for a good 40 years hahhaa.
JDQCIVIC4DR

damm those came out clean what kind of spray can?
Jhwerks

JDQCIVIC4DR wrote:
damm those came out clean what kind of spray can?


the last picture was the one's we just sold and are also the ones we had to redo the reflective coating on.the rest are ones that turned out perfect as far as the coating goes.
I used high heat paint (satin black) and if the reflective coating messes up I use duplicolor chrome paint.I'd do a write up for you guys but I'd hate to steal this thread away from the original poster.

But I do things differently than you normally would see.Doing headlights are my specialty.I put tons f effor into them so they last and look amazing.
~Sp33~

Please do your write up, the OP stole it from another member anyhow.
Jhwerks

~Sp33~ wrote:
Please do your write up, the OP stole it from another member anyhow.


I'll get to work on this. Exclamation
~Sp33~

Looking forward to it!
C-Rex

Looking forward to this too man and have some questions to ask you too when its done Smile
Jhwerks

C-Rex wrote:
Looking forward to this too man and have some questions to ask you too when its done Smile


You can ask me now I've done tons of lights.Many 88-95 lights and a few others such as yaris lights.
Jhwerks

Hey everyone I am willing to start my write up now,however I have no photos of me doing the 88-91 civic/crx lights.I do have some of me doing some 92-95 lights.I am willing to do a step-by-step write-up on the ef's but will have to add photos later when I actually have another set to do.

let me know if you guys would like me to either wait until I do another set,or do my write-up using no photos yet adding them later when I do my next set. Question

thanks,Jh
~Sp33~

Do the write up, and just add the pictures later.  Cool
Jhwerks

~Sp33~ wrote:
Do the write up, and just add the pictures later.  Cool


Ok just wanted to see if it were cool to do so?.Should I make a new thread? or add it to this since it is already stickied?. Very Happy
~Sp33~

Keep it to this thread please.
Jhwerks

WILL UPDATE WITH PHOTOS WHEN I START MY NEXT SET OF LIGHTS.ENJOY!!.

This is my way of doing the "DIY" blackhousing headlights for the 88-91 usdm civic/crx chassis.
NOTICE:Im not responsible for anything you do to your car.However I will be more than happy to help anyone with questions and or problems that may occur during the process.

I DO NOT USE MY OVEN FOR THIS DIY(I like my meatloaf to actually taste like meatloaf not Hondabond Rolling Eyes ) AND ALL ITEMS CHOSEN ARE FROM EXPERIENCE AND ARE KNOWN TO WORK GREAT(but you can use whatever you want,do not hold it against me if your lights turn out terrible).

GOOD LUCK!

Materials Needed:

Krylon Fusion(for plastic) Satin black.[#2421]
(OPTIONAL) Krylon stained glass yellow paint.[9034]
Purple Ducktape brand tape.[less adhesive]
Estracell heavy duty scrub sponge.[4.5x2.75x8in]
Towel and/or gloves

Tools Needed:

Phillips head screw driver
Flat head screwdriver
Metric socket set
Razor Blade or Utility Knife
Butter knife
Heat gun[hair dryer if only resource]


[1]
Pop your hood and first remove the phillips head screw from both drive/passenger corner lights if you have the 90-91 chassis.They are located on the outter side of each headlight bracket.If you have the 88-89 chassis remove the 2 phillips head screws on each drive/passenger corner lights.They are located on the lights themselves.Pull the corners out and set these to the side.

*Make sure to tuck the cornerlight wires on the innerside of the fenders so they do not get damaged.

[2]
Next take the phillips head screws out of the bumperlights only take out the inner screw out because the outter holds the casing together no need to mess with it.Pull these out and set to the side.

*Make sure to tuck these wires behind the bumper cover so they will not be damaged.

[3]
Turn the wheels to the left and right and remove the 2 phillips head screws located on the inner side of the fender at each end of the bumper cover.

[4]
Located underneath the front of your vehicle there will be a handful of 10mm bolts that need to be removed.These hold the splash gaurd/plastic protection in place underneath the radiator.

[5]
Now remove the 2 12mm bolts inside the bumpercover where you removed the bumperlights,there are 2 on each side(4 in all).Make sure to have someone help you with this because this is all that is holding your assembly on.

[6]
If you own the sedan/hatch there will be a front garnish.Remove the handful of 10mm bolts located up under each headlight and the ones in the center.Carefully take this off and put where it will not be damaged.EASY TO BEND AND HARD TO FIND MINT!.

*If you own the crx you can skip this step*

[7]
Now on to the headlights.Behind each assembly make sure to carefully take your bulbs out and place these somewhere safe.

*Make sure to tuck the harness out of the way so it will not be damaged.

[8]
Next take the handful of 10mm bolts holding the assembly to the chassis.They are located underneath each light and on the top of each light.Carefully remove these and place the light somewhere safe.Repeat for other side.

[9]
After having both lights off your chassis take them where you will be doing the work.I chose to lay an old hospital blanket down to keep them form being damaged.A larger cloth will work or anything to just keep the glass safe and away from scratching/damaging.

[10]
Remove the headlight brackets from each assembly should be a few phillips head screws/10mm bolts and that is it.Some lights have the rubber hose remove these as well.Place everything according to side,I used a ziplock bag labeled for each side to keep in order minus the brackets.

[11]
PULL OUT THAT HEAT GUN/HAIR DRYER

Evenly heat the assembly where the glass meets the housing for maybe a minute and a half.Take a flathead screw driver and lightly tap the 6 metal clips.These slide off but normally are to rusted and held on with the adhesive used to seal the lights.

*NOTICE* they slide on/off the same side there is a small nitch that keeps them from going off the other side.

Place these to the side.

[12]
Continue heating up the glass where it meets the housing evenly starting with the top and working your way around the entire assembly.Do this for a good 3-4 minutes.

[13]
Flip the light so you are looking at the bottom of the assembly where the "bottom" clips were located.Concentrate on this area for awhile and take the butter knife and gently start to work through the glue prying between the glass and housing.

*Make sure to do this portion slowly you rush you'll end up with chips of glass in your eyes and/or cracked glass.

[14]
After the glue seems to be alittle flexible work your away around the light slowly and continue prying until you notice the glass and housing have begun to seperate.

[15]
Go back to the bottom and gently pry in between the glass and housing move slowly until you can slide the butter knife into the actually housing itself.After this continue to heat the rest of the light as well.

[16]
Your headlight assembly should be ready to come apart pry the light glass/housing apart slowly while heating the glue around the knife.The glue likes to stay together even when cool so heat it up more to make it seperate.Light should be comming apart heat the glue where it is stuck and should come apart.Now palce this assembly to the side and repeat for other light.

*I normally do one light in 10 minutes on a low setting of heat.I never rush because the glass can chip off into your eyes/face.Just take your time and be careful.

[17]
After both lights have been taken apart and let cool for atleast 10 minutes remove the 2 phillips head screws holding the metal item located in the low beam part of the housing and place with other the labeled items.

[18]
Now take your Estracell heavy duty scrub sponge and lightly scrub the areas you plan to paint with the satin black.
*DO NOT scrub the 2 "half moon" shaped portions of the housing leave these alone.

[19]
After you are finished with the scuffing whipe down the housing with a damp cloth NOT paper towels and repeat on other housing.

[20]
If your reflective coating is in decent/good shape go ahead and begin to tape off your 2 "half moon" shaped areas.I tend to do this by getting the finiest line possible when laying down the tape.You can also just tape off and with your razor/knife cut away the tape with the shape of the housing.

*IF YOUR REFLECTIVE COATING IS COMMING OFF SCUFF AND CLEAN THEN USE DUPLICOLOR CHROME PAINT FOR THE HOUSING YOU WANT REFLECTED*

*NOT AS SHINY BUT WORKS JUST AS MUCH WE HAVE TESTED AND THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE IN LIGHTING.

[21]
Now tape off the outter portion of the housing and whatever you do not wanted covered with overspray.Begin to paint make sure to do alot of light oats instead of a few heavy ones.You do not want to cause runs in your paint make sure to take your time.I gave them 3-5 minutes in between each coat but they were fairly light.

[22]
After you have coated the housing how you want and let dry for atleast an hour and a half or even 2 slowly remove the tape.

*IF YOU WANT AMBER HIGHBEAMS READ THIS:
Tape off the outside of the moon cuts where the black paint is.Use the purple ducktape brand tape this has little to hardly any adhesive power and will not pull up any paint.
After taping off everything but the inner portion of the highbeam housing spray your Krylon yellow stained glass paint.Make sure to do only 2 maybe 3 light coats of this.The more you add the darker it gets,ALSO limit your coats to atleast 10 minutes between each other.This paint runs very easily so be careful and take your time.

*Let dry for atleast another hour.

[23]
After everything has dried slowly take off all tape.If you want your lights to look even better take a small portion of car wax and rub it on the NON PAINTED portion of the reflective coating(low beam side).Make sure to remove any white residue left behind after waxing.

[24]
Now Take and put everything back together in reverse order starting with the metal item that screws into the low beam housing.
HEAT up the gluw on both the glass and housing and place together.Start heating evenly around the light where the glass meets the housing until everything is real nice and gooey.

[25]
Now take and slide each clip back into place usually you have to heat the assembly up alittle more and squeeze together for them to go on easy.I like to do this step slowly I make sure to slide them on not force them on it just takes alittle time with the heat gun and squeezing.
*THIS PROCESS TAKES PLACE OF THE CURING PROCEDURE.THE ASSEMBLY BUILDS UP ALOT OF HEAT AND BY THE TIME YOU ARE FINISHED GETTING THESE CLIPS ON THE LIGHT IS FAIRLY HOT AND CURES THE PAINT.

[26]
After doing this to both headlight assemblies put everything back together.Brackets back on and all other items.

IN REVERSE ORDER TAKE THE LIGHTS AND PUT THEM BACK INTO YOUR CAR.FOLLOWED BY THE BUMPER COVER,BUMPER/CORNERLIGHTS AND ALL BOLTS/SCREWS.

AFTER YOU ARE FINISHED INSTALLING THEM STAND BACK AND ADMIRE YOUR WORK.

*NOTE: if you dislike blackhousing headlights try just taking apart the assembly and waxing the reflective coating.This really makes your lights look 10x's better.I know many folks do not like blackhoused lights but I do this for friends all around me import or domestic and either way if done right looks great!.
~Sp33~

Great stuff, very thorough.
Jhwerks

~Sp33~ wrote:
Great stuff, very thorough.


Sorry if it is to much clashed together.Will be better when I get the pictures.

thanks,Jh.
ef9racer

i did the same on my 91 ef hatch

cldblud

Definitely doin this
91JdmEd3

cldblud wrote:
Definitely doin this


Same here
Vince

.

Jhwerks wrote:
I've done multiple lights everything from 88-91 civic/crx's to 2008 yaris's.

Very Happy
Yes in some cases the reflective coating can come off w/the tape.Just in rare cases have I had this problem.If it does happen scuff,wash,tape off and spray Duplicolor chrome paint on it.It does not appear like it looks on the cap but it does it's job.

Here are some I've done.

Before:


After:




just to know and apply later...

which detailed parts did you paint that doesnt affects the lightning???

Regards,
gotariceburner

clean n easy mod to do, good write up
Vince

.

oes anbody have some pics of the headlights open to se whis specifics parts need to be painted?

Its just that I can barely see
~Sp33~

If you look directly forward at the headlight, don't paint the vertical reflector. Paint the flat horizontal section.
Pablo

im gonna give this a try tomorrow. ill post pics after
Vince

.

like the upper and the lower half moons?

what happens to the luminosity???

would it remain the same????

Its just that i dont want to screw them all since it is kind of hard to get a good set of them over here...

also what kind of paint needs to be used in order for it to not get like cracked or so...


Regards,
Putt Putt

o snap this looks awsome i'll do this  next week

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