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Ruck36

HELP ME PICK A MOTOR

Okay guys i have 91 lx sedan it's a shell i want a reliable but fun to drive car. i was thinking LSV or b16 on 5lbs boost on a good tune or maybe just a b18 im looking to stay under 3k. i have b series mounts and already obd1. please let me know any kind of input
JDQCIVIC4DR

I would go Gsr! W b16 tranny fun on streets.
EF4lyf3

I agree^^ but if your budget permits, i would go Poormans Type-R.
Super fun on the streets lol. One may achieve this by mating a Gsr bottom to a B16 head. Nasty torque, and high HP numbers stock (if done right of course). Add a Lsd b16 tranny and its light out for the street competition.
4dred6

yup these guys are right ^^
EF4lyf3

Why thank you for the kind words^^^
HondaJunkie

Poormans type r and slap a bottle in there.
EF4lyf3

i like the way you think sir!! Bottle kits are only like 250-400 so thats not bad. With that set up im thinking 100 shot wet will do NOICCE..REAL NOIICE (bernie mac impersonation)
cleanRENO90

Personally, I would go with a good b20/vtec setup. Gsr head/B20 bottom end, with a chipped ecu, and tuned. Plenty of torque, and with a good tune, it'll be reliable and quick.

my 2 cents.
HondaJunkie

EF4lyf3 wrote:
i like the way you think sir!! Bottle kits are only like 250-400 so thats not bad. With that set up im thinking 100 shot wet will do NOICCE..REAL NOIICE (bernie mac impersonation)

Haha oh yeah and plus you can beat the shit out of those motors they are strong as hell stock and still very DD material.
Ruck36

Ok thanks guy's i guess imma get started on a b20v or poor man type r what ever i get my hands on first i will keep yall updated
EF4lyf3

Not hating on the man or anything...But B20vs are alittle iffy. I mean dont get me wrong, they are some beast if built properly. Ive seen alot of B20v builds go south because of misinformation.
The b20 block is weak, cylinders are thinner than other motors and the oil transfer isnt completely up to par.
The B16 head and the B20/ls head are much different in comparison of course. so your looking at timing issues right there. The oil pump and water pump will need to be changed seeing as it has 21 teeth and the Gsr/Type-R has 19 teeth along with the oil pump being abit beefier in the port. Just saying, theres ALOT more to worry about with this setup as apposed to the Poormans setup...Hope this helps and again I am not knocking anyone elses opinion or advice. Very Happy
cleanRENO90

EF4lyf3 wrote:
Not hating on the man or anything...But B20vs are alittle iffy. I mean dont get me wrong, they are some beast if built properly. Ive seen alot of B20v builds go south because of misinformation.
The b20 block is weak, cylinders are thinner than other motors and the oil transfer isnt completely up to par.
The B16 head and the B20/ls head are much different in comparison of course. so your looking at timing issues right there. The oil pump and water pump will need to be changed seeing as it has 21 teeth and the Gsr/Type-R has 19 teeth along with the oil pump being abit beefier in the port. Just saying, theres ALOT more to worry about with this setup as apposed to the Poormans setup...Hope this helps and again I am not knocking anyone elses opinion or advice. Very Happy


That is a common misconception..

the b20z block is the same cylinder thickness, and the oiling ports are the same as any of the bseries blocks, including the c1 and c5's. the b20b, on the other hand, is the motor that most people think is thinner, is also the same cylinder wall thickness as any of the b series motors. theyre all cast the same, with the same cooling and oiling ports.

the problem that people chock b20's up to being weak, is improper tuning, and a bad oil feed system to the head, or an overfed cylinder head that starves the main and rod bearings, causing the "weakness" that most people claim.

a b20z, with a gsr oil pump, with a stock bottom end, a b-series vtec head, with a proper tune, is just as reliable as any b series vtec motor.

the same weakness that ls-v is claimed to have, is due to improper oiling, and tune.

again, my .02 cents

EDIT: not knocking your information, or saying you're wrong.
EF4lyf3

I guess  I have misinformation about some misinformation lol. Thank you for that! And idk why i would conform to the thinking of a noob with all the years of hondas that i have. Stupid of me to say the least.  Proper Tune, and GOOD parts (no crappy cheap stuff) and you should be good to go...Just please make sure you break in the motor before you smash. This is hard to do, but ONE pull could me the last for your rod bearing. Take the streets as much as you can, and use the motor as your break.Change the oil at 200 miles first, then another at 1000 then space it out till  you get to about 3000 miles and you will be cherry. I wouldnt rev past 4500-5000 either. Repeat all that for about 2500-3500 miles and the balls on that thing will drop harder than a wrecking ball at 200mph lol.
cleanRENO90

EF4lyf3 wrote:
I guess  I have misinformation about some misinformation lol. Thank you for that! And idk why i would conform to the thinking of a noob with all the years of hondas that i have. Stupid of me to say the least.  Proper Tune, and GOOD parts (no crappy cheap stuff) and you should be good to go...Just please make sure you break in the motor before you smash. This is hard to do, but ONE pull could me the last for your rod bearing. Take the streets as much as you can, and use the motor as your break.Change the oil at 200 miles first, then another at 1000 then space it out till  you get to about 3000 miles and you will be cherry. I wouldnt rev past 4500-5000 either. Repeat all that for about 2500-3500 miles and the balls on that thing will drop harder than a wrecking ball at 200mph lol.


I've had the heads off of lots of b20's, and personally used a micrometer to check cylinder wall thickness, that's how I came to have this info.

Also, you've got to remember that the b20 is designed for a light SUV, so it needs more strength to pull around a 4500-5000 lb crv.
Ruck36

Thanks for info i actually ended up with a b16 block and gsr head not sure what that is lol but im looking for a b20z bottom as we speak and going b20 vtec and have it running by the end of the month. and boosted by the end of next month Smile any info or tips on building the b20 block would help wanna keep it pretty simple and cheap gonna be daily like 8psi max
cleanRENO90

Ruck36 wrote:
Thanks for info i actually ended up with a b16 block and gsr head not sure what that is lol but im looking for a b20z bottom as we speak and going b20 vtec and have it running by the end of the month. and boosted by the end of next month Smile any info or tips on building the b20 block would help wanna keep it pretty simple and cheap gonna be daily like 8psi max


Take your time with the b20, research, find good quality internals, figure what you want for horsepower numbers, figure out what sort of driving you're gonna do, look into headwork, cams, valve train, new valve guides and seals. The more time it takes to research and build, the better the outcome will be.
EF4lyf3

AAAND THEEEN find someone who has experience with B20v tuning!

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