Engine not bolting in need help ASAP

hondacivicdx · Engine not bolting in need help ASAP

Guys, ok this is my problem the motor i bought for my 91 honda civic four door dx 1.5 is not working? What i mean is my mech got it in the car, all the bolts but on is not lining up. Unitech in texas sent
me the wrong motor, they sent me a five speed instead of a automatic(man) but my mech say's it will work,he has got it stabed
into the transmission and into the car but he needs a piece to fit and make that mount work. its the rear motor mount i think its the right side?/ also i have to get new spark plugs and coolant and oil
what type of oil should i use now? They sent me a i think 95 instead of a 91 motor. I really need your help.ASAP I NEED TO BE ON THE ROAD BY NEXT TUESDAY. Embarassed

Icarus

what engine/gearbox are we talking about here?

I put a 92-95 EG auto import D15B engine on my 88-91 gear box, its fine.
Confused

EF Sedan Enthusiast

what's the code on the block for the engine that you're trying to put in? was your sedan an auto or a manual? what tranny style are you trying to drop (or swap) in?

hondacivicdx

My 91 honda civic dx is a 1.5l four door with Automatic transmission
Now my mech said it's the bracket on the right side of the motor
Picture yourself standing in frount of the car, then it's on the right
side of the motor. I thought it would be called the dog bone??
I don't know, but he told me this is all that is stoping him from finishing my car then put new spark plugs, coollant, and oil in it then it's ready to go. But he need's that piece. Confused

hondacivicdx

oh buy the way i will change the oil again when i get paid, what oil do you think i should go with. i read something about eneos 5-30
oil and hamp filters what do you guys know about these?? This is after i get the car back from my mec. then i will change the oil again

Icarus

hondacivicdx

I think this is correct

~Sp33~

Theres no reason for it not to line up. The only reason i can think of it not fitting is if they've sent you a D series engine from a later model civic. It will bolt up to your transmission fine, but you'll need new engine mounts.

As i said earlier though, make sure the engine block reads D15B2. If it doesnt theres a problem.

hondacivicdx

I will double check

hondacivicdx

but since the engine is a standard and my transmission is a automatic will it run once we figure out about the right side bolt

~Sp33~

The manual/automatic engines are identical.

hondacivicdx

Ok i am trying to post a photo of the motor off e-bay where i bought it from how do i do it? because it's the two bolts on the timing belt side that not fitting, it's the bracket that fits over that
to whole it up that's not bolting up.

hondacivicdx

http://i15.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/ag/64/0ac6_1.JPG

Ok this is the engine it's the two bolts buy the timming belt housing
this is what he say's is not linning up. it's the bracket that fits on these two bolts on of the holes on the bracket is not linning up.

hondacivicdx

Guys went over myself to see what was going on the motor is in and the top motor mount is on so the motor is bolted in the transmission, all that is left for him to do is wireing harness, put the radator in along with the fuel injections and a few other things
mabey another 4 hours and he will be finish.

Type-S EF

that's definitely a 92-95 engine because the harmonic balancer has 3 belts and not one of them is a V belt (like our power steering) but whats weird is that the alternator pivot bolt is inserted in the water pump where the top alternator bracket should be?

Oh and is that a mechanical fuel pump?? EGR is usualy on the intake manifold right?

hondacivicdx

You know your right? Thanks again to the EF sedan squad; Man you guys know your stuff. he had to replace the pulley because of that very issue,he showed it to me yesterday and told me he has at least five hours left until he finish/but today it's ranning bad so i don't think he will do anything even with the car under a shead.
Yes you guys are right.Right motor but latter model car.

hondacivicdx

It was a 95 model the harmonic balancer had three groves for three belts so he had to switch it.Also your right again the Egr is on the manifold also one of the bolts going into the motor was striped bad where the bolt would only go a third of the way,so he took that out but the rest of the bolts are holding strong.(latter i will get another mech to fix that re-thred it no big deal) So all that is left is putting it back together again.hopefully i will be ridding by this Friday.

~Sp33~

Congrats on the good news.

hondacivicdx

Thanks sp33 i am so sorry i guess i freaked out for a while but its
been a long while since ive drove anything.Anyway(see i still remember) Thanks all of you guys for the help.Once i get my car i will show you all kinds of photos under the hood and all.Again thanks guys for everything.Ive learned a lot in a short time from
all of you about my motor. Very Happy

hondacivicdx

Ok got everything back together today, but now i needed a distrubator,so my mech told me he could get one today for $100.00
and that is all i needed,so i gave him the money to get on latter today i went back to the shop around 4pm, he was putting things
together and he said around 6pm "well i see they have not sent the distributor well it will be monday" Man i was mad now i have to wait till monday,i needed my car monday, but i guess i will have to wait.Also he said the battery is not getting a good charge so he will
have to charge it up monday. Evil or Very Mad

hondacivicdx

Sp33 ive started a project form but i wanted to let you know as of Nov 20 at 6:00 pm i am now driving my 1991 honda civic dx with
a jdm1.5l motor?

~Sp33~

hondacivicdx

Ok now the check engine light is own is this because i switch motors and bought a JMD or do i need to reset the ECU?

~Sp33~

If you turn the car off and back on again and the check engine light is still on then there is a problem causing the ECU to throw a code.

hondacivicdx

Ok tomorrow once it warms up a bit (it's going to go down to 23
tonight here in shreveport louisiana) But tomorrow i will do this and
see what happens, ok once today the motor when i had it in park
started reving up and down(rrrrummrrrrmmrrrm) it only did that once. thats the way the other motor was doing before it went out
now i got another motor and its did that once???? Whats going on?? Confused

~Sp33~

fluctuating idle could be a dirty IACV (Intake Air Control Valve). Could also be alot of other things, but mmmmmmrum doesn't really narrow it down much Razz

hondacivicdx

just found out the car was made in japan, 1991 and not here in the states. it's running ok i havent went over 45mph not taking the
freeway, just driving the streets. Saturday i went and washed it off
i think i got some water in the tail pipe, it kinda did not want to run at first, but i guess i will not do that anymore.since my job has been changed as of tomorrow i will look at the motor tomorrow
and get the numbers and letters and give you a lowdown on the motor tomorrow

hondacivicdx

Sp33 got a Question Ok every morning i go out to the car, i have to pour water into the radator, now today as i was going to work it started running hot, So i found out the fan is not comming on, so i conected the two wires together to keep the fan running as long as i am driving and the temp held, But i would like to know where
is the water going, The Mech said he bled the system (but to me it sounds as if the water is not flowing properly threw the motor)
Mabey air bubbles, or ?????(you know) The BIG WP. What do you suggest i have to be at work now at 5am Mon Tues Wen. Until 5pm
Confused

~Sp33~

As a quick fix, you can buy a switch at a local hardware and wire it into your car, then just switch the fan on and off as you need it.

The first thing you have to work out is if your car is using the water, or if it isn't circulating correctly. Do you notice any white smoke behind the car when your driving? If you look into your engine bay, check for pools of dried coolant (looks like a white stain). Also check behind the engine as much as you can.

It could also be a faulty thermostat, but they don't eat coolant so i don't think that's your problem. I think your leaking it somewhere. If there's no visual signs of leakage then you may need to take your car to a mechanic for a pressure test, to test your cylinders are holding pressure, and not pressurising your coolant system Mad

Not sure why your fan isn't kicking in automatically though. Follow the wires and check they're connected correctly i guess, but apart from that *shrug*. I'd take it back to the mechanic and complain about it, but sounds like you need the car, and he doesn't exactly work to a timed schedule.

89civicracer

hondacivicdx

Fixed the problem the mech did not tighten the bottom hose to the radator, but i went to midas and they fixed the problem just tighten
the bottom hose, and rebled the system put some of that 50/50
in the system.Now i am happy

hondacivicdx

Guys got that problem fixed, The Mech left the bottom hose to the
radiator loose did not tighten the clamp(man) Midas fixed it and charged me $32.00 that was nice. But today i found the bolt to my starter loose, i could turn it with two fingers, so i got a coworker
tools and used a 9/16 wrench to tighten it. so it wont come out.
I found out also he did not replace my starter it's the same one with the mount that was broken.SO tomorrow i will be going back to midas and ask them if they would tighten every bolt under the hood.

hondacivicdx

went to midas today just to see what else was loose on the car,
found out that the frount, and rear motor mounts were bad, the rubber is split (These are the omd types) So i called Advance Auto
i can get both mounts for $130.00 dollars this will due me for now
And also he found that my starter mount was broken so to get a lifetime starter from Advance auto it's $109.00 well still got work to do before i can start on the suspension or anything else/Oh well
just gona take a little longer to get to the body work. Rolling Eyes

~Sp33~

Why would the mechanic swap an engine using torn mounts.

89civicracer

They were probably existing. . mine are not in the best shape, i need to swap mine out soon also. . . Crying or Very sad

hondacivicdx

you know SP ive been asking myself the same Question and i can't
figure out the answer??(hum) Well all he had to do is buy them and tell me i owed him around $150.00 for new mounts which he could have went to advance auto, or even order them from honda
but to use bad mounts, thats not good.Well he wont touch Kazar
ever again midas will do all my work except for body, i will buy my own parts and just pay them $85.00 AND HOUR to work on the car.
And i know it will be done right> Yes $85.00 is steap but what can you do, i don't have the time to learn, so this is what i am forced to do.i will not go to another bad mech. EVER I HAVE LEARNED FRO MY MISTAKE Laughing

hondacivicdx

Ok as of today i Have new motor mounts in my car so now i can finish project(1) AS of tonight i will be paying for the short ram intake and the air vent/clock $35.00 SO when ever my Debit Card loads up with money then i will pay for it off line. And sit back and wait on the parts to get here.Maxspeed only charged me $100.00
to do the motor mounts, and put the steringwheel on stright and
Reconect a wire that dealt with the speed sensor. So now i can realy get down on this motor, Next step put in the blower motor
and the airvent and the Intake. Then on to Project (2) The frount
Bumper

jkgonzalez3

damn dude that's a lot of money you spending on labor lol

if you where closer i would do the work for you for a beer Razz

hondacivicdx

Thanks i really needed that, i wish you lived closer i would buy you a case if you were here, but it's hard to find good help. But i think these guys will do me right,We will see. Oh he sugested to take the driver door and go back with a lock type and handle that way i can always get into the car, and leave the rest of the doors shaved
Forget the door popers and just leaved the rest shaved.That sounds good. And so far Maxspeed has work wonders on this Sedan Very Happy

Hopefuly buy this time next year you guys wont even know this car.

Type-S EF

it could be your best line of security, i know our cars arent safe at all, i can slim jim our doors in less than 20 seconds with anything from my actual slim jims, coat hanger, paint can handle straightened, shit ive even used just a stick and a credit card.

not having the lock cyl there makes it harder to get in.

hondacivicdx

So your saying don't put a lock cyl in the car, what about a door
handle? just looking for advice i think when i get my alarm hooked
back up(ok do to something i did) But this was good because the guy who wired it got wires everywhere. Maxspeed said they will rewire the whole system again and run the wires where you don't see them i got a good shock sensor also plus i think this time i will have him hook up the glass break sensor and the two stage door
unlocking once we get the door locks back into a least two doors.
and mabey the starter defeat connectors. so if that wire is cut the car wont start?

~Sp33~

hondacivicdx

SO your saying either get the door popers or don't get them at all

~Sp33~

That's what I'm saying.

hondacivicdx

ok i will go door popers

hondacivicdx

Back to the motors, Saturday i did my first motor swap, It was fun
I thought it would be forever but once we took the radiator out and disconnected the harness, all that was left was to take the wheels off take out the drive shaft, then the motor mounts, after we had disconnected the other cables, it was a learning process
But i got it done it was a honda accord standard, Max said it would have been quicker if it was a automatic.But now he's got me thinking mabey next sept i will get me a B18b DOHC with 140 horsepower. That realy would be something, or i would look into getting a jmd ZC dohc that i will just have to just drop it in, i thin that's 137 horsepower, with the headers it should give me a little more and the intake(short air ram) i should redline at around 7500
Rpm's Hummm, something to think about

~Sp33~

The DOHC ZC is a nice engine. Rated between 125-130hp.

Easier to swap then a B series.

hondacivicdx

yea, i think i will go that way latter, but for now i going to covert from dual injection to multi. and do the rest mabey by next august
i will do the motor swap, but i going to run this one for a while. and
with the conversion i might be able to sell that motor for about $600, and this will go towards the zc motor then all i would have to come up with is 500.00 that's cool then a will have a lttle bit more horses under the hood.

hondacivicdx

Ok got a chance to get a b16a for one thousand dollars at the shop
JJ is going to sell the motor, trany, ecu, and harness for a thousand dollars, you think i should jump on it? Well i am going to help do the swap, ive done three swaps in the shop with jj, and his brother angelo
but with ralph, jj, and Angelo and myself doing all the small bolts like
the headers and exhaust system and undoing the motor mounts it should go smooth, oh yea were going to use the motor mounts from the b16a??