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CRXKSWAP

Brian's SMF sedan build!

He guys, im new around here, but the name's Brian.

I am no stranger to the EF chassis, as I autocross a CRX you may have seen.... www.crxkswap.com

Just the other day I picked up a 90 civic sedan for 300 bucks to keep as a winter beater. She was not in the best of shape, but my goal is to turn it into a daily driver that can also hold its own in an autocross (H Stock class)

Before I begin, let me familiarize everyone with what can be done in H stock. Stock classes are classes for cars with very little modifications done to it. This favors cars with a good suspension setup and light weight from the factory. The civic conveniently has both of these, with a curb weight under 2200 pounds and a sweet double a arm suspension Smile

The main things you can do in H stock are:
Replace the shocks with anything you desire
Use any rim size that came on the car along with any tire(usually light weight wheels with Hoosier R compound tires)
Replace the air filter and exhaust(cat-back)
Replace any factory worn part with a stock equivalent

Now, I am a student on a budget, so I cannot simply just dive into a full build with new parts.

My first step is to make the car pass inspection, so I can meet my goal of daily driver, I will get to the autocross setup later.

When I got the car the trunk was filled with mold, and the interior smelt FUNKY.
The first thing I did was vacuum the whole car, and then use interior carpet cleaner to make every thing nice and fresh. I then used a bleach cleaner to kill the mold in the trunk and clean it up. Unfortunately, the trunk's carpet was too moldy to salvage, and the board between it and the spare tire area was waterlogged and warped. I cut the carpet out and threw the board out, someday I will replace them if I come across some. In the meantime, having no moldy rear carpet will keep the car from smelling awful.

The other big issue with the car when I got it was the exhaust. It had rusted out before the resonator and broken off.

Now, if I had decent funds, I could just put a nice, lightweight, catback exhaust on the car. However, this is not the case, so I took the exhaust off, grinded the rust down, and welded it back together. I also checked the air intake filter to see if it could use a new one to breathe better, but it looks like it is brand new.

I also changed the oil and filter in the car, giving it some fresh synthetic to replace the dirty oil the car came with,

This was all done today, and I have more plans up my sleeve to fix the car up with little funds.

Before I leave for school in two weeks, I intend to clean the rust up. The car has typical honda rust around the wheel wells and rocker panels. I will grind it all down and put some rust sealant on the car to prevent the thing from getting worse and rusting away in the harsh Rochester, NY winters. Then I will cover it up with some primer for now. If I ever feel inspired, I could do some bondo work and cover it up with some real paint.

I also have some rear bushings laying around that I would like to put in to freshen up the suspension. Oh, and I need to lube the shift linkage, it is a tad bit stiff.

Lastly(for now), I have a rear pair of koni yellows that I would like to put in, and if I can track down a pair of fronts those will go in too.
This car with some new bushings and fresh shocks will be a hoot to drive, save for the junky tires the car came on.

Which brings me to my next goal: tires.

The car came on stock steelies,  with 4 tires, all of different sizes, weather it be different profiles or widths. I am looking for a pair of used snow tires to get me through the winter, and come spring I may look for some nice summer tires.

For now, those are my plans for the car. The car really is in need of some much needed TLC and love, and if given that it should be a nice little daily driver to get me around. If i find some used R-comps, it could be a somewhat competitive H stock car if driven well.

So, know you know my goals, and I will update you all with pictures and information as I go. I have yet to clean the exterior of the car, and there has not been a sunny day to take pictures, so I will leave you with a picture of her on jack stands in my garage, where she is now.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/p...0fnF_x61PrFAtu6_w?feat=directlink

Enjoy everyone! I look forward to the world of sedans Smile
jon_akers

Keep updates on the autox setup, I am very interested in doing it in my sedan. I did about 4 or 5 events about 3 years ago in my 2004 GTO, and I know this little car would be fun to thrash around some cones in.
CRXKSWAP

Sure thing. The basic formula is hoosier A6's, good shocks(koni's, bilsteins, etc), as much camber and toe as you can run for better turn in, the lightest exhaust possible, and fresh bearings/bushings/ball joints etc.

To be honest you can get away with shocks and slicks. If you are new to the sport, start with good summer tires for about a year instead of slicks, racing slicks mask driving mistakes and you will pick up bad driving habits.
jon_akers

Yeah, thats what all the veterans have told me. I looked at your crx page, man that is killer. Im gonna just freshen up my bushings and autox next year. I'm not trying to be competitive, just having a good time and learning.

I will probably be getting more advice from you when the time comes.
CRXKSWAP

For a beginner, having a competitive setup won't matter, it will take you a while to learn and become decent at the sport. Make the car work and reliable, and focus on your driving. I know plenty of people who are competitive or dominant in their class while not being prepared to the limit of the rules. they simply make up for it with superior driving, and often beat drivers with much more expensive/well set up cars.

The goal of autocross is to have fun, so just take what you got and go out there and drive! The rest will fall into place later down the road Smile
CRXKSWAP

Uh-oh

I registered my car yesterday, swapped the tires around, and started to neutralize the rust. I tried to get her inspected afterwards, but failed because of the size of the hole in the rocker panel and a leaky exhaust gasket(I tried to make my own instead of buying one Smile)

I bought some real gaskets, and some bondo to start patching her up. WHile driving her around, I put about 65 miles on her. However, when I got home I checked the coolant level and, despite filling the radiator and reservoir up last night, the reservoir was EMPTY. Looks like its time to order a new head gasket. Ughhhh
89 LX SOHC ZC

Thats no good.
CRXKSWAP

good news.

I took the car over to a friends house, and he pressure tested the cooling system. Turns out my radiator is leaking, causing said loss of coolant. I have the stock radiator from the CRX, that will go in and I won't have to take my head off Razz

Also, I bondo'd the body, and put in sheet metal where the quarter and rocker panel rotted away. I covered the work up a few coats of primer. I also put in a real exhaust gasket, the car should at least be ready for inspection
89 LX SOHC ZC

Hell ya!!... that is good news.  Good luck with the inspection.
CRXKSWAP

Well, I got the car inspected yesterday no problem, that was good news for me. Today I pulled out the radiator and put in my stock CRX radiator that I had. Car no longer leaks coolant( So far), but now I am running into overcooling issues. The first 30 or so miles the gauge in the car was maybe 1/3 of the way up, cooler than before but expected because the new radiator has like twice as many fins(the old one was beat up). However, driving around at night when it was cool I would have to work the car REAL hard to just get the gauge off the bottom where it rests when the engine is off/cold.

Does anyone else have experience with this? I figure it is probably either the thermostat or the temperature sending unit for the gauge. If anyone has any advice/theories/ methods to test to see what it is, that would be great, I hate just buying parts until I get whatever fixes the problem Evil or Very Mad

Also, I got me a set of 4 very good condition snow tires on 14inch steelies for just 100 Smile Gotta love craigslist.

I will probably upload some pictures of everything tomorrow.
CRXKSWAP

Hey guys, just checking in and telling you whats up with my sedan.
This is gonna be a pretty large update(for me at least), the car has been quite interesting

In August, I loaded up my civic with all of my life's belongings. It is absolutely amazing how much stuff I could convince to fit inside the car, but it was a bit like playing tetris  Laughing  

My father and I were headed out to Lincoln Nebraska for the SCCA solo national championships(more about that later), and we were to pitstop at my college to drop my stuff off for when I returned to school. The furniture that didn't fit in my car went in my Dad's truck, and we headed out with our CRX in tow.

http://i.imgur.com/NXuX3

Despite being loaded down with my belongings, I saw about 47 MPG on the trip, not too shabby.

After dropping off my stuff we continued the 1000 mile journey to Lincoln. National Championships were awesome, most amazing event I have ever participated in. My driving was not my best, nad I placed 7th in SFM out of a field of 17(I beleive).

Here is a picture of me in action, check out the SMF facebook page too, the more popular SMF gets the faster it becomes a real class! And than means we would all have a place to go have some autocross fun in modded EF's.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php...1136638690&type=1&theater

Shortly after returning to school, the tailpipe rusted off where it meets the muffler. I don't have access to welding equipment here, so as soon as I return home and to the garage I will attach it, because it is bordering the annoying side of loud  Evil or Very Mad

There was a SCCA autocross here at my school shortly after that, and I decided to take the EF out for some fun. I borrowed a friend's 13in takeoff race tires and wheels, stripped the rear, and ran the car in EP. Despite being old and tired, the car kicked add and even with the harsh EP in an essentially stock car I paxed around 45 out of 120ish. Super fun to drive!

http://i.imgur.com/RvORf

More recently,in a tragic case of an old car being old, the rear passenger door lock tab snapped off. Until I have the time to take the door panel off, My passengers all have to enter the rear from the passenger side Laughing Also, the glass run channel for the drivers door's window became weak and snapped, and now is very elastic, not providing a good seal at the top of the window and there would be the constant rushing of wind and cold air. I wrapped the top part in place with electrical tape(running it around the top of the door, truly ghetto-fabulous  Laughing. The side is not so easy, and untill I buy some glue it gradually slips down if you dont pull it all the way up once in a while.

As it has been getting cold, my car has still been overcooling like a bastard. Any day that it is not over 55 or so degrees, the temp gauge will set dead cold like the car wasn't even on. If i kept the heater valve closed, it would eventually warm up, but of course the moment I put the heat on the temp plummets again. Driving around cold all the time was hitting my fuel economy, and one tank(all short trips and stoplight driving too of course) was as low as 27, as opposed to my usual 34-38ish. although it wouldn't harm the car to drive it like this, it was constantly bothering me in the back of my mind.

So I went to home depot, and gathered up some supplies to engineer a solution...
So I retured home with a single roll of blue painters tape, and got to work.  Wink

http://i.imgur.com/4e4mH

I made a radiator blockoff plate of sorts, to reduce the amount of air reaching the radiator. Took her for a test drive, and sure enough it managed to warm up and stay warm. This pretty much confirms that my thermostat is stuck open, which could even have been intentional. The radiator the car came with was pretty busted, and its a possibility a previous owner/maintainer just yanked the thing out or disabled it to try and keep the car from running hot.

This ghetto-fix cost me close to nothing, and will hold me off until go home and really work on my car.

I also tried swapping  a 91 CRX driver's seat in when I was bored, but unfortunately it wasn't going to just bolt right in. The seats have essentially the same base and track length, but the mounting is slightly different. For example, one of the cars has a 45 degree mounting angle for one of the back rails, and the other car is flat. Other mounting holes on the rails are off by a few inches as well. So I figured big deal, I'll just swap the seat rails. Nope. the damn rails have different mounting points too. I just put the stock seat back in  Sad .

http://i.imgur.com/0sPXc

I return home soon, and I have a feeling I am going to spend alot of time polishing the car up. I have snow tires waiting for it(and maaaybe some koni yellows too  Wink ) and intend to do all of the repairs to make the car 100% again.

Until then, I'll just leave you with a picture of me and my car as it stands now!

http://i.imgur.com/bQKtE
89 LX SOHC ZC

Sounds like all kinds of fun LOL. Very Happy
CRXKSWAP

I'd say so! All the things that brake or don't work right just add to the personality of the car... plus I love coming up with improper solutions to problems!
89 LX SOHC ZC

For shure.
CRXKSWAP

Hello all,

Big update here! I was recently home from school for Christmas break, and I spent most of my time underneath my sedan!

Unfortunately I didn't think to take too many pictures, but I got alot done.

First things first, I put a new exhaust on to replace the rusty old one. I got a cheapo SS 70mm exhaust for a hatchback, and used some piping from the CRX's old tanabe exhaust to extend and properly fit the thing. It ended up coming out pretty much perfect



And here are the added pieces of piping, for those wanting to do the same.





Next up, it was time for a new gauge cluster. I was sick of having no tach, so I swapped in the automatic cluster from my CRX(It now has a SIR cluster to be compatible with the K engine)



Of course, I had no light bulbs for the cluster, so I stuck some blue LEDs in that were lying around. It looks pretty sweet, matching the blue interior!!



I also got around to fixing the broken lock. I didn't have an extra tab, so I sorta made my own    Cool



I also had some alpine speakers, so I pulled out the worn and tired stockers and put those in. Of course, the mounting panels for the speakers were missing, and the damn speakers in there had just been hanging freely. No wonder they had so much distortion! So I mounted them directly into the door panels.



I was also sick of having a leaky trunk. by using the garden hose test, I figured out that the only place where water was getting in was the cracked taillights. You guys probably already know that our taillights fetch (IMO) way too high of a price, so I just dumped some silicone into the cracks to seal it. Problem solved!

Now with all that out of the way, it was time to get down to the important stuff!

First, a new distributor went on to replace the original one, which decided to munch its ball bearings.

Next up was the suspension. Being a Boston, MA car the first 20 years of it's life, the suspension was pretty much rusted and shot. The dampers were just about toast, with a very rough stroke. I threw some koni yellows in there to replace them.




The bushings all ball joints were completely shot all throughout the car, so I ordered ALL THE THINGS!

The scary part was the ball joints were ready to pop themselves out. About half a crank on the ball joint removal tool and the suckers were out. this is NOT supposed to happen. In addition, there were no cotter pins used in the castle nuts, and the spindle nuts on the driveshaft/hub were not punched in! What a terrifying thought! If I ever find out who used to work on this car, I'm going to have to yell at them!

So I went about taking apart all of the suspension, and pressing out the bushings. Sure enough, all the bushings were either cracked or split or otherwise worn down. New honda OEM trailing arm bushings, UCA bushings, LCA bushings, strut mount bushings, sway bar end links and sway bar bushings went in. I replaced all the ball joints, and a-arms as well.

Once that was all finished, I put the car back together using new bolts, and actually put cotter pins in the castle nuts and punched in the new spindle nuts  Evil or Very Mad. The whole suspension refresh was a major PITA, as rusty bolts that have not been touched in 22 years have a tendency to break, resulting in alot of frustration and liberal use of a dremel Very Happy.




Since I had to remove the trailing arms to press new bushings in, I had to bleed the brakes when it was all back together. Normally thats fine, except my bleed valves were are rusted and frozen, they couldn't be opened without snapping Evil or Very Mad

Fortunately, I had the original set from the CRX, so I had to swap those on. Those bleed valves actually opened, and when bleeding the brakes, I was pretty horrified by what came out! Lots and lots of air, as well as a healthy portion of grey sludge. New fluid went in, and I bled the shit out of the system. Brake pedal now feels much stronger and linear!

When finished, I slapped my snow tires and steelies on, and gave the car a much needed alignment.

I got the car inspected, and took it for a spin. Whoa! This thing feels like a brand spanking new car, and those koni's can really stick the thing to the ground! I'd still like a bit more rotation in the car, and due to the new SCCA stock class allowances, I can now add a rear sway bar. I ordered a CRX si rear sway, and plan to put it in next time I'm home.

So, now my car is pretty much ready for some serious HS ass-kicking, as soon as the weather gets warmer. For budgeting reasons, I will probably run the road tire index class with star specs or rt-615k's, Hoosiers on this thing is just too much money at this point.

For now, here is how the car looks!



89 LX SOHC ZC

Nice updates, the new exhaust looks realy good.
CRXKSWAP

Well, not much of an update, but more of a status check in.

The 7 Hour drive to Rochester went off without a hitch, carrying me, 2 friends, and all of their worldly possessions safely to school. I was feeling the hypermiling spirit, so I taped up most of my creases and panel gaps in hopes of the holy grail of 50 MPG.




First tank was hopeful, getting a little over 43 MPG at 65 MPH. clearly the snow tires were hindering the potential of the little 1.5 liter, although the fact that I wasn't drafting anything the whole way didn't help either. The next tank of fuel I increased speed to 75-80 MPH, and got an atrocious 30MPG!  Laughing

Anyways, we finally got some snow this last week, so naturally, I took advantage of it. Whoever says FWD isn't fun in the snow, I challenge you to drive this car and tell me it isn't a blast! Cool

A buddy of mine and I had some fun in empty parking lots today, him with his 2.5 RS and me with my civic. Here are some pictures of the results  Laughing























89 LX SOHC ZC

Looks like all kinds of fun.
Sevwen7

driving in the snow with our sedans is fun! haha i wish i got nice action pictures like you did
EF Sedan Enthusiast

Awesome!
~Sp33~

Oh man, fix that thermostat, radiator blockoff? Dodgy!

Looks like you're having fun though.  Cool
CRXKSWAP

Hey, my custom painters tape blockoff worked just fine, made it to NH from NY with the water temp sitting happily in the middle  Very Happy.

But don't worry, thermostat was the first thing I replaced when I returned to NH at Thanksgiving break.

You wouldn't think I would do ALL that suspension work to my car and ignore the thermostat, would you??  Laughing
CRXKSWAP

Well, It's been a while, so time for an update!
I've been busy with school, so I haven't done TOO much with the car. I will mostly let the pictures explain what's been done.

I put in a clock for my dash


And got some HX wheels


Gave the HX wheels to a friend with a DA integra, and got me some bottlecaps



Then I put her on a mustang dyno


And made a whopping 79 HP + 70 TQ Cool


Took it to the drag strip, where I cut a 17.4 with a gentle launch. I got more agressive, and snapped an axle! (whoops)


Ordered new ones for each side, and has it back together in no time, although security was pretty pissed that I was red-necking up the parking lot Razz


Did a few more autocrosses, placed 5th and 3rd in road tire class against some very good drivers. Was in 1st until the last run at the most recent event, but 2 drivers picked up the pace at the last second. Still managed to PAX top 15 in both events, despite being on street tires in an uncompetitive car Cool. I need to put that rear sway on already!





Almost lifting the inside wheel(where's that sway bar when I need it!)


cool collage my buddy at michaelbushphotography.com made


Also discovered that 15x8's with some fat hoosiers clear everything in the suspension, I'll have to have some fun at a local event some time. But talk about fender gap! Laughing



On the way home my cluster also hit the big 150!(although its not original, so the car actually only has 140 now.) Still a cool milestone.



And here are some video's. the first 2 are the first 2 autocrosses from this year(no video of the most recent one Sad ) and the last one is the dyno pull. Talk about taking forever to get to redline! Laughing

http://youtu.be/0tE1h9dyKl0

http://youtu.be/dfAon0ppoIQ

http://youtu.be/otCrxhAFbx8

Lastly, I recently went to a pick-n-pull with my buddy just for fun. I ended up coming home with a new honda emblem to replace my cracked one, and 2 new front lips, one from a 91 accord and one from a 95 accord. I'm gonna have to hack either one to get them to fit properly, so I only wan't to spend the time modifying one. But I can't decide which one! The 95 is a bit more aggressive and the 91 is more subtle. But I've never been one to be into appearance, so I want to ask you guys for opinions! Which one should I go for?

Well, thats about it for now. I have some OEM parts to replace, some rust repair to do, a sway bar to throw on and a front lip to get on. I'll let you know how it all goes!
CRXKSWAP

aaannndd back from the dead!

Last time I checked in the autocross season was just getting underway. Now it's almost time for the 2013 season, and some things are a changing! But first, I'll give you a quick recap of last year

kicked ass in H stock all year long





Changed a lot of tires



Had some fun in the mud



Battled through many snowstorms


And took on a 3500 mile road trip


And then, when all was said and done, I got the itch again. I wanted to go faster.


Originally, I planned to step up to SCCA's street touring compact class(STC), where bolt on power mods and suspension upgrades are allowed.

I picked up a neuspeed front tower bar for $60

got some free ground control coilover sleeves, some free eibach springs(going with 600F 400R),
a 24mm progress sway bar(free)

an HF front sway bar(free),
a DC sports header for $125

the rear muffler and tip from a tanabe exhaust(free),
a random K&N filter and some piping from an intake,
Hawk HPS pads

Centrix rotors

and I also grabbed some 15x7.5 rota slipstreams wrapped in toyo R1Rs for cheap


But there was still one problem. It was becoming very apparent that my motor was getting tired, and sipping on oil and coolant as well.

So what did I do?
I came home with this.

It's a D16Z6 with about 88K miles on it.
The plan is to get everything ready to swap in by the end of May.
I also got a good deal on a quaife LSD, a chipped p28 ECU, and some other goodies. I'll get thrown all the way to Street Mod FWD in the SCCA, but I'm willing to sacrifice competitiveness to have a car that is all-around fun.

Stay tuned!
EF Sedan Enthusiast

Good stuff man!  How'd you get away with all of those goodies for free?
89ef2

Looks like some fun going on... can't go wrong with free  Cool
4dred6

89ef2 wrote:
Looks like some fun going on... can't go wrong with free  Cool
HondaJunkie

I redneck my parking lot all the time.
CRXKSWAP

EF Sedan Enthusiast wrote:
Good stuff man!  How'd you get away with all of those goodies for free?


Some of it was from contingency money from sponsors. They pay me to go fast and win Smile

The rest is from other racers who often times just want old crap out of their garage once they upgrade to newer/better stuff. Example the progress bar was replaced by an ASR bar, the tanabe exhaust was replaced with a custom burns + thinwall stainless setup, and the coilover sleeves and springs were taken off so a guy could go to motons and  hypercoils with staggered springs(4 different rates, its the secret formula for the EF's)

One man's trash is another man's treasure.
~Sp33~

Awesome read! Love the action shots/vids!
89civicracer

Love where you are going with this thing..
Nuts that you were using your stock motor for autocrossing.. but cool nonetheless.. Smile
CRXKSWAP

Thanks for the love guys!

I too am excited where this is going Smile It'll be nice to have enough power to get out of my own way, and a limited slip to back it up! Now I just need to find a 89 SI transmission because the quaife I got requires the 40mm diff bearings. Whoops.

And 89civicracer, autocross is a sport of precision and grip, power isn't so important Very Happy Plenty of people were surprised by just how quick the car would move with next to no horsepower. I ran it with the stock motor because it kept me in a competitive class, so I could sort out the car and get the handling up to par before jumping off into the deep end.

Now that everything is running well and the car is reliable, it's finally time to go faster. My best time so far at the drag strip was a 16.999 at 80.1 MPH. All I wanted from the stock motor was one sub-17s run, I'm glad it gave it to me. Hoping for mid to low 15's once all is said and done, but I prefer sharp handling to smoosh-your-eyeballs-into-the-back-of-your-head power anyways. That's what the boosted K20 swapped crx in the garage is for  Cool

If all goes as planned, I should have the ground control sleeves and eibach springs on by Saturday night.

stay tuned!
89 LX SOHC ZC

Nice stuff man looks like fun.
FlatTireRacer

You're a ways off but I do believe that I have a trans...
CRXKSWAP

FlatTireRacer wrote:
You're a ways off but I do believe that I have a trans...


Yeah, looking for something more local, sorry bud.
CRXKSWAP

Well, the car finally has some low in its life.

Got the ground control sleeves,extended top hats, and eibach springs on.

Assembled and some paint over the rust on the shocks


Pimpy extended top hats


Installed


I noticed that my 1 year old rear LCA bushings were starting to tear, so I pulled some old Junk2 rear LCA's out of the attic and slapped them on. A nice 1.5 pound weight savings each, but I still hate their stupid bushing design(they wear out super  quick)



Since this car is going to see lots of performance driving, and is also still a daily driver, it wasn't going to go too low,  as that would compromise the suspension geometry and scare my oil pan  Rolling Eyes .

I set the perches about 3/4" higher then what I run on the race only CRX. This resulted in 2.3 degrees of front negative camber and 1.6 degrees of rear  negative camber. Perfect!

I was going to throw my rota's on, but after a few races in the Miata the tires were a little less than optimal Wink




And here's a video of what killed the tires Smile
http://youtu.be/TSBI32MQEmY


So for now, it is sitting on the snow tires and winter wheels. Gotta order me some new tires! The car will be  lower then it is now with real wheels and low profile summer tires.





And here it is next to its new heart Wink


Man this thing corners flat with the 600lb/in front and 440 lb/in rear springs! Its got a bit of push on corner entry, which should be addressed by going to an HF front sway bar. After entry, the car is very neutral with just a touch of oversteer towards corner exit. The camber makes for very responsive turn-in too. I'm looking forwards to seeing how it feels on real tires.

Surprisingly, the car also rides better then it did with the stock springs. I'd imagine the off the shelf koni yellow valving was a little too much for the super soft stock springs.

Well that's all for now, I need to finish gathering up swap parts, hopefully the D16 can be up and running by the end of May.

Stay tuned!
EF Sedan Enthusiast

Good stuff man.  This is going to be a track beast  Twisted Evil
~Sp33~

Sweeet!
CRXKSWAP

Ordered some 205/50/15 BFG Rivals. Should be here on Thursday  Twisted Evil
EF4lyf3

How does one get sponsored my friend?
CRXKSWAP

I race with the SCCA, and they have several contingency programs.

Hawk, Hoosier, and Honda(as well as others) all pay out at national tours and prosolos. Some of the payouts are products/product credit, and some of them are cold hard cash.

Of course, you have to win if you expect to get anything.
89 LX SOHC ZC

Sweet Dude.
EF4lyf3

I must save my money, and start training lol. Never been to an event before but I know for a fact I can rip some corners and progress in that area of hondary hahah.
89CivicSi

I demand pics of this "new heart", but very nice
CRXKSWAP

89CivicSi wrote:
I demand pics of this "new heart", but very nice


It's on page 1, but I'll post it again for you

CRXKSWAP

Summer wheels and tires are on. 205 rivals on 15x7.5 Rota slipstreams just BARELY clear the rear trailing arms. There's just enough room to slide a piece of cardboard between the RTA and tire. But no rubbing! Very Happy

And of course, there is SO MUCH GRIP. I've driven a lot of extreme performance summer tires, r comps, and the like. But I'm absolutely amazed by the rival's performance, they almost feel like the older Kumho V710 R comps, and wear like iron. To be honest, there is too much grip to really push the car anywhere near the limit on the street.

FlatTireRacer

I'd love to have another set of Slips... Miss my old set.
Have you ever tried the Toyo R888's? Those things are RETARDED sticky!  Wink
CRXKSWAP

FlatTireRacer wrote:
I'd love to have another set of Slips... Miss my old set.
Have you ever tried the Toyo R888's? Those things are RETARDED sticky!  Wink


I got the slips for a song, I couldn't pass them up.

I have tried the R888! A little better grip than the rivals, but nowhere near the same tread life. They're still no Hoosier A6 either, id rather have a set of true r-comps for racing and a 200TW tire for the street then just one 100 TW tire. But if I had to choose 1 tire to do it all, the R888's wouldn't be a bad choice(Unless it rains  Twisted Evil )
FlatTireRacer

True, not the best rain tire...
CRXKSWAP

Took the car out to a local autocross saturday to see how the new suspension felt.



In the morning, my co-driver and I disconnected the front sway bar, thinking it would be a poor man's LSD, and that my front biased spring rates would compensate for the extra roll.

http://youtu.be/y3pKrpVkjw0

Nope. Turn in was slow, and it would encourage giving the car too much input, unsettling the rear and getting loose. The steering was incredibly mushy through slaloms, and the only thing I felt confident in was sweepers, of which this course had very few.


At lunch, I reconnected the end links, and we gave it another go.

http://youtu.be/WxrOM19BYvU

The car felt much better. You could actually place the car where you wanted to, and it did it in a timely manner. The car had just a bit of push, but a dab of the brakes or lift of the throttle rould initiate a little rotation. Both of us were about a second quicker, and were putting down pretty quick times.

http://youtu.be/gWSrqjtFrio




Sunday, I attended another event. This time, my ride was this:



An '88 CRX Si, prepared for G stock.
225 width Hoosier R-comps up front, 205's in the rear. Koni Double Adjustable shocks and a tanabe rear sway bar. And the best part? A freshly rebuilt D16A6 bored .020 over with almost no miles on it.

The car was a blast. Although by no means a fast car, the thing made my car feel like slow motion. I only weigh a smidge more than his car, and I have some tricks up my sleeve to get below 2000 lbs. With a little more power than this CRX and an LSD in my future, I think my car will be pretty mean Twisted Evil .

http://youtu.be/FTmE4fOcIL8

http://youtu.be/KyDh-9BU504
~Sp33~

Hahah, F'ing nailed those cones in the no front swaybar vid. Nice save @ 1:00 too.

Looks like even with the front bar reconnected you could probably benefit from a bigger rear sway bar (or a rear sway bar if you don't already have one!). Would really tighten that initial turn in where it looks like it's a bit doughy.
CRXKSWAP

~Sp33~ wrote:


Looks like even with the front bar reconnected you could probably benefit from a bigger rear sway bar (or a rear sway bar if you don't already have one!). Would really tighten that initial turn in where it looks like it's a bit doughy.


I'm currently running a 24mm progress rear sway bar, set to full stiff. I don't think you can get one bigger than that! Laughing

Initial turn in appears slow only because the steering rack is so goddamn slow. With the front bar, is actually has a nice crisp feel, there is an HF front bar in my garage that I'm going to test out too. I have a quaife quick ratio rack (2.83 turn lock to lock) that will be thrown in sometime soon to cure my slow steering woes.
~Sp33~

CRXKSWAP wrote:
~Sp33~ wrote:


Looks like even with the front bar reconnected you could probably benefit from a bigger rear sway bar (or a rear sway bar if you don't already have one!). Would really tighten that initial turn in where it looks like it's a bit doughy.


I'm currently running a 24mm progress rear sway bar, set to full stiff. I don't think you can get one bigger than that! Laughing

Initial turn in appears slow only because the steering rack is so goddamn slow. With the front bar, is actually has a nice crisp feel, there is an HF front bar in my garage that I'm going to test out too. I have a quaife quick ratio rack (2.83 turn lock to lock) that will be thrown in sometime soon to cure my slow steering woes.


Will be keen to see what the vids are like after that!
CRXKSWAP

Took the car out racing last weekend. Nobody signed up for STC so I signed up for Street Modified FWD instead. Ended up winning the class anyways. Some of the cars I took down included a nearly 300HP Mazdaspeed 3, a turbo del sol, and a b16 swapped EG hatch. Video to come.

I also got bored and had a bit of fun with my go-pro last night.







Finally found a Si Transmission for a fair price, hopefully its here by the end of the week, and I can get going on that LSD install Smile[img][/img]
4dred6

looking good man
EF Sedan Enthusiast

Looking good dude & I'm sure you pissed off those guys against you in SM FWD.

Si + LSD =  Twisted Evil
89 LX SOHC ZC

Lookin good my man more power is not always better.  LOL
CRXKSWAP

89 LX SOHC ZC wrote:
Lookin good my man more power is not always better.  LOL



Sometimes, it is  Twisted Evil



I had a chance to drive an FC RX7 on Sunday at an autocross. No rotors in this mazda though, she's got a big ol 'murican v8 under the hood. The car was just about stock other than the motor swap. 25 year old suspension parts combined with slippery 300 TW tires made it just a little bit tricky to get that much power down!

Photo credit goes to Michael Bush Photography




And some video
http://youtu.be/Nu1kKmrZKUA

The car was an absolute riot to drive, so much power and almost no grip. It wasn't putting down stunning times, but damn did it sound good!
CRXKSWAP

So, back to the civic.



I finally got a hold of a Si transmission. An 89 box, with 220k miles on the clock. But the price was right and I went for it.

I cleaned it up, and took a look inside.







Everything looked great, the bearings had no play and the synchros were all fine.

I'm going to replace all the seals and get the quaife LSD installed as soon as I have some time.
4dred6

sweet. that 7 sounds nice
CRXKSWAP

So, as part of a smokin' deal I made in april, I ended up with a chipped P28 ECU. Unfortunately, it was tuned for a B16, and I was going to have to spend some $$$$ on getting it retuned for the new D16Z6.

But, I just lucked out. A racing friend of mine just put a B16 in his 92 SI, and has no use for his chipped P28 tuned for a D16Z6. So I'm doing a straight trade with him, meaning I won't have to get my car tuned! More money for other go-fast bits  Twisted Evil
EF4lyf3

SWEEEEET. Let the trade begin!. I ran a chipped P30 (JDM B16) on my V-Tec-E. Shit was rich as hell but my V-Tec was cracking pretty damn hard.
tenkaracole

I thought you said the vtec still cracks hard. Wink
EF4lyf3

it does but it was cracking HARDER Smile
tenkaracole

I see! Wink
CRXKSWAP

Also found a lead on a new (used) brake setup.


2-piece 10" rotors, wilwood 4 piston motorcycle calipers, and SS brake lines. Still clears 13" rims and drops about 10lbs per side(including some rotational weight  Smile  )

Hopefully I can make this happen!
tenkaracole

YAY! Very Happy
~Sp33~

CRXKSWAP wrote:
Also found a lead on a new (used) brake setup.


2-piece 10" rotors, wilwood 4 piston motorcycle calipers, and SS brake lines. Still clears 13" rims and drops about 10lbs per side(including some rotational weight  Smile  )

Hopefully I can make this happen!


Those pistons look awful tiny.
CRXKSWAP

That's because they are motorcycle calipers  Cool

The stock brakes on our civics are absolutely terrible, even these "tiny" four pistons should be a remarkable improvement. Plus, weight it the enemy and this does a damn good job of getting rid of lots of that.
BLU CIVIC

dunno if i'd use calipers meant for a motorcycle. it may work but i wouldn't feel 100% safe in my stopping
CRXKSWAP

It's considerably improved braking compared to the shit calipers that come from the factory.

A fellow racer uses them for both autocross and TRACK DAYS, and he loves them.

http://www.wilwood.com/calipers/CaliperList.aspx?subname=GP320

The Wilwood GP320 is made for motos, open wheel sports cars, and other light cars that require SERIOUS stopping power. These are worlds better then what the penny-pinchers at honda decided were sufficient for a cheap econobox back in 1988. I would never put anything on my car that would make it less safe, or risk the safety of those around me. Don't let the GP320's size fool you.
~Sp33~

Mmm, i guess it's more the effective area of a small caliper compared to even an OEM caliper which has a much larger surface area on the rotor. It's easy to overheat a small contact patch.

Surely a dc4 (16cl14vn ?) caliper with a 262 rotor, or 282mm rotors with the 17CL15VN's would be far more effective. EF's are light, but they're still 4/5x heavier than a motorbike. They look lightweight, but it's unsprung weight which isn't a huge deal.

I dunno. I guess it would be cool to see you do it,and get your opinion of it.
tenkaracole

^^Still seems really small to me! Confused  Just a recomendation...test them in a controled area away from the street!
CRXKSWAP

tenkaracole wrote:
^^Still seems really small to me! Confused  Just a recomendation...test them in a controled area away from the street!

~Sp33~ wrote:


Surely a dc4 (16cl14vn ?) caliper with a 262 rotor, or 282mm rotors with the 17CL15VN's would be far more effective. EF's are light, but they're still 4/5x heavier than a motorbike. They look lightweight, but it's unsprung weight which isn't a huge deal.

I dunno. I guess it would be cool to see you do it,and get your opinion of it.


*Sigh*. Its a setup that has been proven effective and safe, both on the track and street. If you looked at the link I shared, you'd see that they are not JUST for motorcycles, but for open wheel formula cars and other machines approaching the weight of an EF. But if you guys want to continue to believe it is a recipe for instant death, carry on.

As for the bigger rotors and calipers, while they are a popular setup, it is not in my best interests. It adds more rotational weight, takes away my ability to run 13in wheels( a MUST for when I find some 13x9 or 13x10's), and if I can already lock my fronts on stock caliper and rotor, I have no use for all that extra area.

But anyways, moving on.


Picked up a momo mod 08 for just $100, just need to find a hub.

EG wiring harness came in too, and my synchrotech full rebuild kit for my transmission shipped. I figured it would be wise to just do everything while I'm in there.

As soon as thats in, everything can be prepped for the swap!
4dred6

Sick wheell
stormdrop

^x2
CRXKSWAP

Well I've been pretty bust lately, so it's been more hoarding and less building.

So first Ill share with you guys what has kept me from working on the car.

I raced a few different cars, including a D stock prepped mini and and a street touring sport miata.



(Yup, thats my car lurking next to it, but I wasn't the one driving it
Cool  )



I also spent a weekend with imagine lifestyles as an instructor for their "exotic autocross experience", so these were my mobile offices for the weekend Smile








I got to drive a few of them as well, including the Ferrari F430 Scuderia, Lamborghini Gallardo lp550-2(both droptop and hardtop flavors), and the lp560-4. Those things were fun, and I had a blast teaching people how to drive them fast all weekend.

Lastly, I wasted some time helping a friend do a koni install on his Sentra SE-R spec V, and I managed to hit myself in the face with a 3 foot iron pipe when a bolt snapped Embarassed





Here are the koni powered cars when it was all said and done!



Ok, enough about my excuses, back to the car!

I welded the hole in my exhaust(finally!)


And hacked up a tanabe medallion CRX exhaust rear section to replace the shitty ebay one I had on there.


The car sounds sooooo much better now! I may even keep my sanity on the highway.

I pulled the clutch and flywheel to find this


So I went ahead and ordered a new clutch and got a deal on a brand new exedy lightweight flywheel while I was at it





I also got a free head unit



Some shifter bushings and motor mount inserts




Next step was to pull the transmission apart to install my synchotech full rebuild kit and the Quaife LSD





As it was going back together, I realized the shift collar for 1-2 was demolished, as were the 1-2 gears themselves. Mista Bone hooked me up with a better condition 1-2 gearset, and I had him send me a mythical HF 5th gear as well  Cool . This means I will get almost the same highway RPM in 5th as a DX transmission while having the acceleration of an Si transmission Smile

I also picked up some racing slicks, 6 of them for 20 dollars Smile


And brought them home in this:


You probably won't guess what it is, but I'll give you some hints. Mid engine, AWD, 5-speed, and Right Hand Drive Smile

Hopefully I find some time soon to stop collecting parts and start throwing them on the car Smile

Stay tuned!
4dred6

Nice updates man, sucks about the injury tho. Might be wrong but it totally looks like a Suzuki (van)
stormdrop

nice pickup on the slicks, sucks getting busted in the face. Im going to guess it is a Diahatsu creation.
~Sp33~

CRXKSWAP wrote:
tenkaracole wrote:
^^Still seems really small to me! Confused  Just a recomendation...test them in a controled area away from the street!

~Sp33~ wrote:


Surely a dc4 (16cl14vn ?) caliper with a 262 rotor, or 282mm rotors with the 17CL15VN's would be far more effective. EF's are light, but they're still 4/5x heavier than a motorbike. They look lightweight, but it's unsprung weight which isn't a huge deal.

I dunno. I guess it would be cool to see you do it,and get your opinion of it.


*Sigh*. Its a setup that has been proven effective and safe, both on the track and street. If you looked at the link I shared, you'd see that they are not JUST for motorcycles, but for open wheel formula cars and other machines approaching the weight of an EF. But if you guys want to continue to believe it is a recipe for instant death, carry on.

As for the bigger rotors and calipers, while they are a popular setup, it is not in my best interests. It adds more rotational weight, takes away my ability to run 13in wheels( a MUST for when I find some 13x9 or 13x10's), and if I can already lock my fronts on stock caliper and rotor, I have no use for all that extra area.

But anyways, moving on.


Picked up a momo mod 08 for just $100, just need to find a hub.

EG wiring harness came in too, and my synchrotech full rebuild kit for my transmission shipped. I figured it would be wise to just do everything while I'm in there.

As soon as thats in, everything can be prepped for the swap!


Haha, sorry man i didn't mean to piss on your parade. I'll be interested to know how they go  Cool .
EF Sedan Enthusiast

Nice updates! Well minus the injury.
89 LX SOHC ZC

nice updates looks like you've been having some fun other than the injury.
CRXKSWAP

Damn, I've been busy. Just came off three national events in three weeks.

Anyways, did a few odds and ends on the civic project.





NRG short hub, quick release, and momo wheel are finally on.



Pulled the head off the z6, so I could do ARP studs and a fresh head gasket + timing and water pump. Well I made some measurements, and the cylinders are kind of oval. Like, right on the edge of the tolerances oval. At this point, I can either run it as is and hope it's alright, or go all out with some machine work and fancy parts. I'm still undecided




Finally finished up the transmission after spending way too much time and money on it. The final result?

89 CRX si case, replaced 1-2 gear set + reverse idler, brand new synchros, seals, and bearings EVERYWHERE. CRX HF 5th gear, Si final drive, and a quaife LSD. This thing should be better than sliced bread.

Next up will probably be the quaife quick ratio rack while I decide what to do with my motor.

Oh, and I acquired a new sticker, conveniently located next to my car's battle scars(yes, I was briefly on snow tires in the summer Razz)
89 LX SOHC ZC

Id say if you have the money rebuild the z6 it would suck to get it in and half to pull it back out to rebuild.  The trans looks good and nice sticker.
4dred6

X2
EF Sedan Enthusiast

I agree. Is the laptop for tuning or references?
~Sp33~

Interesting combo with the HF 5th and SI final. What RPMs does that put you on @ 60?
CRXKSWAP

EF Sedan Enthusiast wrote:
I agree. Is the laptop for tuning or references?

Just have it in my car for references Very Happy Sedan's ECU is still stock, for now.

~Sp33~ wrote:
Interesting combo with the HF 5th and SI final. What RPMs does that put you on @ 60?


On my 205/50/15's, 60mph will come at 2577RPM with this combo. Compare that to 2863 for a purely Si transmission, and 2620 for a DX transmission.


At 80MPH the HF 5th gives you a nice 400 RPM drop over an Si from 3818 to 3437 (3493 for the DX)

As you can see, the combination pretty much gives you a slightly more efficient than DX cruising gear with the 1-4 acceleration of an Si. Best of both worlds.
CRXKSWAP

This weekend is swap weekend.here goes nothing...
EF Sedan Enthusiast

Awesome.  Good luck and keep us posted.
Geo-93

Love that Momo Mod 8
i have the same one but in leather had it for my EG but still have the momo and love it
Sedan is coming along good
89 LX SOHC ZC

Sweet good luck with the swap.
CRXKSWAP







4dred6

sweet
CRXKSWAP

So, here's the progress so far.

D15B2 out.
Subframes wire-wheeled, cleaned, painted, and reinstalled
Clutch and flywheel installed on Z6
New transmission dressed
Engine bay cleaned up.
Suspension and brakes back in the car(except for shocks)
HF sway bar installed
Quaife quick ratio steering rack installed
Motor mount inserts installed
Shifter Bushings Replaced
ARP studs, water pump, and tensioner installed on Z6


Waiting on a new clutch release bearing before I mate the tranny to the motor.

Still waiting to get the head back from the machine shop before I finish dressing it.

Waiting on new radius rod bushings before those go back in.

Need to wire things.
EF Sedan Enthusiast

That's some good progress.
89 LX SOHC ZC

Nice progress.
4dred6

x3
CRXKSWAP

The last *fingers crossed* order of parts I needed came in.



Energy Suspension radius rod bushings, New radiator mounting cushions, Proper clutch release bearing, and silicone hoses.

Installed the radius rods and clutch release bearing tonight, and got started on the hoses. If I get my head back from the shop tomorrow I should be able to finish this weekend.
89 LX SOHC ZC

Nice.

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