EFSedan.com EFSedan.com
1987 to 1991 Honda Civic Sedan Owners Club
 
FAQ :: Search :: Memberlist :: Usergroups :: Join! (free)
Profile :: Log in to check your private messages :: Log in

Fuel pump cut off switch

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    EFSedan.com Forum Index -> Write Ups & Tech Info
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Please Register and Login to this forum to stop seeing this advertising.






Posted:     Post subject:

Back to top
CHANGE
Site Admin


Joined: 21 Jun 2006
Posts: 293


Location: Normal Illinois

PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 5:22 am    Post subject: Fuel pump cut off switch  Reply with quote

The idea is to install a switch in the power circuit to the fuel pump, with the switch hidden in a secure spot. With the switch off and fuel pump dead, the engine quickly dies. Car cranks like usual, but doesn't run for more than 5 seconds. The only way to steal your car now is to tow it or put it on a trailer.

You will need the following parts for the mod:
Wire cutters and striper
10 ft. of 12 gauge wire or one size smaller (length depends on where you put the switch)
Exacto knife or razor blades
Shrink tube insulation or electricians tape (shrink wrap/tubes better - from Radio Shack)
Soldering gun and solder
A bunch of male/female connectors
A switch (two pole). I got a rocker switch from Radio Shack that was rated for automotive use.

Here's the creative part. Find a location for hiding the switch. I'd tell you where I put mine, but then I'd have to kill ya. However, here are some suggestions. Under the shift boot; You press through the boot cover to hit the switch. You might have to do some fabrication of a switch holder bracket. In the ashtray/cigarette lighter area. Inside the console compartment (too obvious). Inside the trunk of the car (pain to get to, but max hidden). Any place that's a blind spot. I don't recommend the glove box or under the dash. Too obvious. Remember, the car jacker has probably already disabled your alarm, ignition kill, and starter kill system. He'll deduce that you have a poorly maintained car, or you have another kill switch somewhere.

Remove all panels covering the fuel pump. You will find a round dohicky with a bundle of wires going to it. Yes dohicky is a professional term. Carefully open up the cover of the wire bundle leading to the top of the fuel pump. The bundle of wires split at some point with 3 wires going to the fuel sending unit and low fuel connector, and two wires going to the C566 connector and pump. Mine had electricians tape around it. Locate the yellow/green wire (that's yellow wire with green stripe). This is the power wire (from ignition circuit) that fires up the fuel pump. [If still confused on the what is what, wires to ignore are yellow/white, black/yellow, black/white, & green/red. They are for sending unit to fuel gauge and low fuel light.] I used the yellow/green wire myself. Cut the wire. Strip some of the insulation off of both ends (just enough to connect with male and female connectors). Locate where you want to install the switch. Figure out how you're going to affix or attach the switch. If access to connecting the wires is limited, wait until the last minute to glue, screw, or bolt the switch down. I super glued mine. Improvise.

Connect a new section of wire to the wire coming out of the fuel pump. You do have the option to hard wire the circuit. However, I soldered a female connector to the wire coming out of the pump and a male connector on the new wire (more about this later). Use a hair dryer to shrink insulation over the connection. Your option is to use electrician tape. Route that wire to your switch. Solder or use a female plug connector to attach to one pole of the switch. Now, take another piece of wire and connect to the other pole of the switch (female connector or solder). Route that wire back to the fuel pump area.

Connect that wire coming from the switch to the remaining or only loose end fuel pump wire (the one that goes to the circuit and finally to the power). Use a female connector on the wire from the switch and a male connector on the remaining wire. Shrink tube insulate that puppy. The circuit is now complete. The reason I have a male connector on the wire coming from the power circuit and a female connector on the wire from the fuel pump is to have an emergency way to hook up the circuit if the switch fails. Just a failsafe backup. To keep all the wires from chafing or disconnecting, I used small zip ties to bundle the wires to other wires or spots.

Test the switch. Start the car. If it starts, the switch is in the "on" position. Then, switch the switch to the opposite setting. The car should stall out. Taaaadaaaa, fuel pump is switched off. If the car doesn't start in either setting, you have bad connection someplace. Recheck the circuit. You only have four places that it could be screwed up. The only other problem could be the cheap ass switch you bought at Target.

If the switch works, finish the install of the switch. Hide it good. Reassemble all the panels. You're in business. The only thing you have to be aware of is that it is a given you will forget about the switch. You'll jump in the car, turn the keys, and it won't start. That's when you slap yourself silly because you forgot (for the 10th time) that you didn't turn on the fuel pump switch. DAMNIT!!! Stupid, stupid, stupid. However, that's the idea. You want the car jacker to think that you're a rotten car owner that poorly maintains his car. Won't start. A more experienced car thief will look for a mechanical fuel cutoff switch under the hood or some other device under the dash or glove box. If the switch is hidden and he doesn't want to spend a lot of time looking, the thief will split to find an easier target. This security mod is a cheap, extra layer of protection. No guarantees.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail AIM Address Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger
4G Addict
Young Grasshopper


Joined: 26 Jun 2006
Posts: 41


Location: Barrie Ont. Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that was a well written article. Easy to follow too! I'll be doing this shortly....
_________________
1989 4 Door Si
1989 CRX Z6 Turbo
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
krazeeazian04
EF Sedan Nut


Joined: 11 Aug 2006
Posts: 153


Location: nor cal.. yay area

PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

awsome write up! PROPS! ive read about this in honda tning, just never knew what to do.. imma start on this one right away. Very Happy
_________________
EF Sedan Squad #65

alright.. where's the B.F.H.?

tired of my dpfi... i need a motor..
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
CHANGE
Site Admin


Joined: 21 Jun 2006
Posts: 293


Location: Normal Illinois

PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

btw I didnt write this. I took this off of clubcivic.com. I'm not sure who wrote it and I'm sorry for forgetting to give them the credit.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail AIM Address Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger
efsedanlove.
4g4d PFC


Joined: 16 Jul 2009
Posts: 59



PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know, bump from the dead.
anyways, I was wondering if I could use two switches on the same yellow and green wire?
_________________



WSC=3
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
~Sp33~
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Jun 2006
Posts: 4598


Location: QLD, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure you could. But they would both have to be switched on for any current to pass.
_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail AIM Address MSN Messenger
efsedanlove.
4g4d PFC


Joined: 16 Jul 2009
Posts: 59



PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

~Sp33~ wrote:
Sure you could. But they would both have to be switched on for any current to pass.


thank you!
Now on to some wire cutting.
_________________



WSC=3
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
efsedanlove.
4g4d PFC


Joined: 16 Jul 2009
Posts: 59



PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

another question, would a 16 amp swith work?
_________________



WSC=3
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
~Sp33~
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Jun 2006
Posts: 4598


Location: QLD, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think there would be any problem, the rating the switch has is just the maximum amps that the switch can handle.
_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail AIM Address MSN Messenger
cldblud
4g4d Enthusiast


Joined: 11 Oct 2009
Posts: 248


Location: Savannah GA

PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the post, cant wait to get this one goin. I love hacking wires
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail AIM Address MSN Messenger
ingold
n00b


Joined: 29 Sep 2010
Posts: 8


Location: China Grove, N.C.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did this today. took me roughly 2 1/2 hours. including my two trips to advance. great write up.

Back to top
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    EFSedan.com Forum Index -> Write Ups & Tech Info All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Card File  Gallery  Forum Archive
smartDark Style by Smartor
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group
 
Create your own free forum | Buy a domain to use with your forum